STURGIS, S.D. — Choppers, rockets, baggers, sportsters and trikes. 

It’s a melee of gleaming metal and angry loud pipes, growling animalistically through Boulder Canyon like a pack of wolves.

The alpha is easy to spot. 

He wears a black bandana, leather vest and stout black boots kicked up on the highway pegs as though he were in a reclining chair. A slender woman in a paisley bandana clings tight around his chest, her long Indian braids whipping around in the wind like rattlesnakes in a combat dance.

But it’s not what he rides, it’s how he rides, rounding corners as smoothly as a shine cloth over the curve of a boot toe.

This is the coolest guy alive, you think to yourself.  

Then the two of you come to a dead stop side by side at a streetlight in Sturgis, and you start to second guess things.

You turn your head to find a man whose face looks older and more haggard than a game-used Babe Ruth baseball glove. Though, the glove may find that comparison offensive.

On the one hand, being old has never looked so cool. On the other, you wonder if one of the great icons of American badassery — the biker — is past its prime. 

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